Sewing machine needles
Sewing Machine Needle Sizes and Types: Which Needle for Which Fabric
Choose the needle type by fabric and the size by fabric weight and thread. An 80/12 universal needle suits quilting cotton and shirting with 40 to 50 wt thread, a 90/14 handles medium-weight fabrics, and jeans needles in 100/16 or 110/18 sew denim and canvas. Knits need ballpoint or stretch needles.
The metric number is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (80 = 0.80 mm). Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap.
Needle sizes
| Size | Fabrics | Thread weights |
|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | Silk chiffon, Organza, Batiste, Fine lawn | 80 to 100 wt |
| 65/9 | Silk, Fine and highly elastic knits, Lingerie fabrics | 60 to 100 wt |
| 70/10 | Lawn, Voile, Silk, Lightweight knits, Microfiber | 60 to 80 wt |
| 75/11 | Lightweight to medium knits, Quilting cotton piecing, Machine embroidery | 50 to 60 wt; 40 wt embroidery thread on an Embroidery 75/11 |
| 80/12 | Quilting cotton, Shirting, Poplin, Linen (light to medium), Medium knits | 40 to 50 wt |
| 90/14 | Light to medium denim, Twill, Corduroy, Fleece, Machine quilting through layers | 28 to 40 wt; heavier threads on a Topstitch needle |
| 100/16 | Heavy denim, Canvas, Upholstery, Leather | 12 to 30 wt (use a Topstitch needle for 12 wt) |
| 110/18 | Heavy canvas, Upholstery, Heavy denim, Leather | Heavy and topstitching threads |
| 120/19 | Very heavy canvas, Upholstery, Vinyl | Heavy thread |
Needle types
| Type | Point | Best for | Schmetz band |
|---|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | General sewing on wovens and many knits | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Jersey, Interlock, Sweater knits, Fleece | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Spandex and Lycra blends, Swimwear, Activewear, Highly elastic knits | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Denim, Canvas, Heavy wovens, Quilts | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Microfiber, Silk, Batiks, Precise piecing and topstitching | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Piecing, Machine quilting through layers | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Rayon and polyester embroidery thread, Machine embroidery | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Metallic threads, Sensitive specialty threads | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Topstitching, Heavy or multiple threads, 12 to 40 wt quilting threads | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Leather, Suede, Heavy nonwoven synthetics | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | Parallel topstitching, Knit hems, Pintucks | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | Heirloom hemstitching, Loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | Dense or coarse fabrics in machine embroidery, Long embroidery runs | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | Fusibles, Spray-basted quilts, Adhesive stabilizers, Vinyl | None |
Researched from manufacturer specifications, owner manuals and verified owner reviews, not hands-on testing, and not professional advice. As an Amazon Associate, Cozy Stitchery earns from qualifying purchases.