Leather Sewing Machine Needles: What They Are For and Which Size to Use
Leather needles have a cutting point. They are best for leather, suede, heavy nonwoven synthetics, and not for wovens, knits, and faux leather that could tear from the cutting point. Common sizes run from 70/10 to 110/18. Schmetz marks them with a brown band.
Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap.
| Point | Cutting point |
|---|---|
| Best for | Leather, Suede, Heavy nonwoven synthetics |
| Avoid for | Wovens, knits, and faux leather that could tear from the cutting point |
| Sizes | 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18 |
| Schmetz color band | Brown |
Which size leather needle should you use?
| Size | Fabrics | Thread weights |
|---|---|---|
| 70/10 | Lawn, Voile, Silk, Lightweight knits | 60 to 80 wt |
| 80/12 | Quilting cotton, Shirting, Poplin, Linen (light to medium) | 40 to 50 wt |
| 90/14 | Light to medium denim, Twill, Corduroy, Fleece | 28 to 40 wt; heavier threads on a Topstitch needle |
| 100/16 | Heavy denim, Canvas, Upholstery, Leather | 12 to 30 wt (use a Topstitch needle for 12 wt) |
| 110/18 | Heavy canvas, Upholstery, Heavy denim, Leather | Heavy and topstitching threads |
How do needle types compare?
| Type | Point | Color band |
|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | None |
When in doubt, test
Sew a few inches on a scrap of the same fabric, folded to the same thickness. Skipped stitches usually mean the wrong type; shredded thread usually means the eye is too small.
Needles and machines
SCHMETZ Gold Jeans Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
$8.99Titanium-coated Schmetz jeans needles in 100/16 for denim, canvas and thick layers.
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SCHMETZ Leather Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
$7.31Cutting-point leather needles for real leather and suede on a domestic machine.
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Janome HD3000 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine with Hard Case
$529.00A heavy-duty mechanical machine that handles thick layers where heavy needles are needed.
Check pricePrices change often, so confirm on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
What are leather needles used for?
Leather needles have a cutting point and are best for leather, suede, heavy nonwoven synthetics. Choose the needle type by fabric first, then the size by fabric weight and thread thickness.
What sizes do leather needles come in?
Schmetz lists leather needles in 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18. Use the smaller sizes for lighter fabrics and finer thread, and the larger sizes for heavier fabrics and thicker thread.
When should you not use leather needles?
Avoid leather needles for wovens, knits, and faux leather that could tear from the cutting point. Using the wrong point can cause skipped stitches, runs in knits or damage to the fabric, so match the needle to the fabric before you start.
What color band are leather needles?
Schmetz marks leather needles with a brown band on the shank, above a second band showing the size. The color code helps you pick the right needle out of the pincushion, but other brands use different or no color codes.
How often should you change sewing machine needles?
Many sewists change the needle every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or with each new project, and right away after hitting a pin. Signs of a dull or bent needle include skipped stitches, a popping sound, snags and puckered seams.
How we research: we compare manufacturer specifications, owner manuals, published standards and recurring themes in verified owner reviews. We do not test products in person, and this is researched guidance, not professional advice. Follow your machine manual and pattern, and take care with rotary cutters, hot irons and needles. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.