Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart: Sizes and Types by Fabric
Sewing machine needles are sized with a metric and US number, such as 80/12. Use 60/8 to 70/10 for sheer and fine fabrics, 80/12 for quilting cotton and shirting, 90/14 for medium weights, and 100/16 to 110/18 for denim, canvas and upholstery. Choose the type by fabric: ballpoint or stretch for knits, jeans for denim, microtex for fine wovens.
The metric number is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (80 = 0.80 mm). Choose size by thread thickness and fabric weight; choose type by fabric (Schmetz). Thread pairings are starting points from thread makers; test on a scrap.
What needle size should you use for each fabric?
| Size | Fabrics | Thread weights | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | Silk chiffon, Organza, Batiste, Fine lawn | 80 to 100 wt | Finest household size; Schmetz Universal and Microtex come in 60/8. |
| 65/9 | Silk, Fine and highly elastic knits, Lingerie fabrics | 60 to 100 wt | Schmetz Stretch comes in 65/9. |
| 70/10 | Lawn, Voile, Silk, Lightweight knits, Microfiber | 60 to 80 wt | Aurifil pairs 80 wt with 70/10 or 80/12. |
| 75/11 | Lightweight to medium knits, Quilting cotton piecing, Machine embroidery | 50 to 60 wt; 40 wt embroidery thread on an Embroidery 75/11 | Schmetz Quilting, Stretch, and Embroidery come in 75/11. |
| 80/12 | Quilting cotton, Shirting, Poplin, Linen (light to medium), Medium knits | 40 to 50 wt | Aurifil pairs 40 wt and 50 wt with 80/12. A common all-purpose size. |
| 90/14 | Light to medium denim, Twill, Corduroy, Fleece, Machine quilting through layers | 28 to 40 wt; heavier threads on a Topstitch needle | Aurifil pairs 28 wt with 90/14. |
| 100/16 | Heavy denim, Canvas, Upholstery, Leather | 12 to 30 wt (use a Topstitch needle for 12 wt) | Aurifil pairs 12 wt with 100/16 or 90/14 Topstitch. |
| 110/18 | Heavy canvas, Upholstery, Heavy denim, Leather | Heavy and topstitching threads | Schmetz Jeans, Microtex, and Leather come in 110/18. |
| 120/19 | Very heavy canvas, Upholstery, Vinyl | Heavy thread | Largest household Universal size in the Schmetz guide. |
Which needle type is right for your fabric?
| Type | Point | Best for | Avoid | Sizes | Color band |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Universal | Slightly rounded point | General sewing on wovens and many knits | Fine knits that run, Dense microfibers, Heavy denim | 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18, 120/19 | None |
| Jersey (Ball Point) | Medium ball point that slips between knit fibers | Jersey, Interlock, Sweater knits, Fleece | Tightly woven fabrics | 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16 | Orange |
| Stretch | Medium ball point with special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches | Spandex and Lycra blends, Swimwear, Activewear, Highly elastic knits | Non-stretch wovens | 65/9, 75/11, 90/14 | Yellow |
| Jeans / Denim | Medium ball point with reinforced blade | Denim, Canvas, Heavy wovens, Quilts | Lightweight and delicate fabrics | 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18 | Blue |
| Microtex (Sharp) | Very slim acute point | Microfiber, Silk, Batiks, Precise piecing and topstitching | Knits | 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18 | Purple |
| Quilting | Special taper to a slightly rounded point | Piecing, Machine quilting through layers | Knits | 75/11, 90/14 | Green |
| Embroidery | Light ball point with wide eye and groove | Rayon and polyester embroidery thread, Machine embroidery | General construction sewing | 75/11, 90/14 | Red |
| Metallic | Elongated eye that reduces shredding | Metallic threads, Sensitive specialty threads | Standard all-purpose sewing | 80/12, 90/14 | Pink |
| Topstitch | Sharp point with extra-long eye | Topstitching, Heavy or multiple threads, 12 to 40 wt quilting threads | Fine thread on delicate fabric | 80/12, 90/14, 100/16 | Light green |
| Leather | Cutting point | Leather, Suede, Heavy nonwoven synthetics | Wovens, knits, and faux leather that could tear from the cutting point | 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18 | Brown |
| Twin (Double) | Two needles on one shank; point type matches the base needle (Universal, Stretch, Jeans, etc.) | Parallel topstitching, Knit hems, Pintucks | Machines without a zigzag-width throat plate, Side-to-side stitches wider than the plate allows | n/a | None |
| Hemstitch (Wing) | Flared wings beside the blade that open holes | Heirloom hemstitching, Loosely woven natural fabrics like linen and batiste | Knits, Synthetics that close the holes | 100/16, 120/19 | None |
| Titanium-Coated (Schmetz Gold Embroidery) | Embroidery-style point with titanium nitride coating for longer life | Dense or coarse fabrics in machine embroidery, Long embroidery runs | Nothing specific; costs more than standard needles | 75/11, 90/14 | None |
| Super NonStick | Anti-adhesive coating with extra-large eye | Fusibles, Spray-basted quilts, Adhesive stabilizers, Vinyl | No special restriction | 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16 | None |
Needles and a machine that handles them
SCHMETZ Gold Jeans Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
$8.99Titanium-coated jeans needles for denim and thick layers.
Check price
SCHMETZ Leather Sewing Machine Needles, Size 100/16
$7.31Cutting-point needles for leather and suede.
Check price
Janome HD3000 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine with Hard Case
$529.00A heavy-duty machine that takes the larger needles thick fabrics need.
Check pricePrices change often, so confirm on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
What do the two numbers on a sewing machine needle mean?
The metric number is the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (80 = 0.80 mm). The second number is the US size. So 90/14 is a metric 90 needle, 0.90 mm thick, sold in the US as size 14. Both numbers go up together as needles get thicker.
What size needle should I use for quilting cotton?
An 80/12 universal, microtex or quilting needle suits most quilting cotton piecing with 40 to 50 wt thread. For machine quilting through the layers, many quilters step up to a 90/14 quilting or topstitch needle, especially with 40 wt thread or dense batting.
What needle should I use for denim?
Use a jeans or denim needle, which has a reinforced blade and sharp point. Size 90/14 handles lighter denim, and 100/16 or 110/18 handles heavy denim and hems with many layers. Pair heavy topstitching thread with a topstitch needle so the thread passes through the eye without shredding.
What needle should I use for knit fabric?
Use a ballpoint (jersey) needle for most knits and a stretch needle for very stretchy fabrics like swimwear and spandex blends. Their rounded points slip between fibers instead of piercing them, which prevents skipped stitches and runs. Sizes 75/11 and 80/12 cover most T-shirt knits.
How often should you change sewing machine needles?
Many sewists change needles every 6 to 8 hours of sewing or at the start of each project, and always after hitting a pin. Skipped stitches, a popping sound, snagged threads and puckered seams are all signs of a dull or bent needle.
How we research: we compare manufacturer specifications, owner manuals, published standards and recurring themes in verified owner reviews. We do not test products in person, and this is researched guidance, not professional advice. Follow your machine manual and pattern, and take care with rotary cutters, hot irons and needles. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.